Upper Mustang Trek Pick and Drop Kathmandu

Elevation: 2,810m The journey begins with an early morning flight from Pokhara to Jomsom. This flight is a legendary experience in itself, as the small twin-otter aircraft weaves through the world's deepest gorge, flanked by the 8,000-meter massifs of Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri. Upon landing in Jomsom, the wind typically begins to howl through the Kali Gandaki Valley—a daily phenomenon in this region. After meeting the trekking crew and organizing gear, the walk commences along the flat, rocky bed of the Kali Gandaki River. The terrain is stark, dominated by grey river stones and the distant, snow-capped peaks.

The destination is Kagbeni, a 500-year-old village that serves as the gateway to Upper Mustang. This village is a fascinating labyrinth of narrow mud-brick alleys, dark tunnels, and traditional houses huddled together for protection against the wind. At the northern edge of the village stands the red-walled Kag Chode Thupten Samphel Ling Monastery, founded in 1429. Here, you will find the restricted area checkpoint where your special permits are officially stamped. Standing at the viewpoint overlooking the river, you can see the trail stretching north into the "Forbidden Kingdom," marked by a sudden transition into the colorful, wind-eroded cliffs that define the Mustang landscape. The evening is spent in a teahouse, soaking in the medieval atmosphere of this border town.

Elevation: 3,050m Leaving Kagbeni, the trail climbs steadily along the eastern bank of the river. The landscape shifts dramatically from the wide riverbed to high, terraced hills. This is your first real taste of the Mustang "rain shadow"—the earth becomes a palette of ochre, red, and brown, sculpted by centuries of wind into cathedral-like formations. You will pass through the village of Tangbe, where the houses are whitewashed and surrounded by fields of buckwheat, barley, and apple orchards. The contrast of the bright green crops against the desert-like soil is a hallmark of Himalayan irrigation.

Continuing north, the trail reaches Chhusang, situated at the confluence of the Narshing Khola and the Kali Gandaki. Just beyond this village, you witness a geological wonder: a massive chunk of a fallen cliff has formed a natural tunnel through which the river flows. High above, the cliffs are dotted with ancient "sky caves," mysterious man-made openings that sit hundreds of feet above the ground. To reach Chele, you must cross a bridge over the river and ascend a steep, winding path up a rocky ridge. Chele is a small settlement perched on a plateau, offering a panoramic view back toward the south. The culture here begins to lean more toward the Tibetan "Manangi" style, with firewood stacked neatly on flat roofs, symbolizing wealth and preparation for the harsh winters.

Elevation: 3,475m The trek from Chele is physically demanding but visually spectacular. The day begins with a climb to the Taklam La Pass (3,624m), followed quickly by the Dajori La Pass (3,735m). These high points offer the first clear views of the Tilicho Peak and the Yakawa Kang. As you traverse these ridges, the scale of the landscape becomes apparent—vast, treeless expanses that stretch toward the Tibetan border. The trail eventually descends into a deep canyon to reach the village of Samar, a lush oasis known as a stopping point for horse caravans.

After lunch in Samar, the path takes a rugged turn. You descend into a steep gorge and then climb back up to a ridge, passing through groves of juniper trees. A highlight of this day is the optional detour to the Ranchung Chhung Cave (Chungsi Cave), a sacred pilgrimage site where Guru Rinpoche is said to have meditated in the 8th century. The cave features naturally formed stalactites that resemble Buddhist deities. The final stretch involves another ascent before descending into Syanbochen. This small settlement is tucked away in a quiet fold of the hills. The air here is thin and crisp, and the stars at night are exceptionally bright due to the lack of light pollution and the high altitude. It is a day of deep silence and immense geological scale.

Elevation: 3,520m The trek continues with an ascent to the Yamada La Pass (3,850m). The trail winds through a desert landscape characterized by "chortens"—Buddhist shrines—that are painted in the distinct Mustang colors of red, white, and grey. You will pass through teahouses and small settlements like Geiling, where the local monastery is painted a deep, earthy red. The climb then continues toward the Nyi La Pass (4,010m), which is the highest point of the trek so far. From the top of the pass, you are rewarded with a 360-degree view of the Mustang landscape, which looks like a crumpled sheet of brown and purple velvet.

The descent from Nyi La is relatively gentle, leading toward Ghami. As you approach the village, you will see the Ghami Wall—one of the longest Mani walls (prayer stone walls) in Nepal, stretching over 300 meters. Local legend says the wall was built to pin down the intestines of a demoness defeated by Guru Rinpoche, and the red cliffs above the village represent her blood. Ghami is one of the larger villages in the region, surrounded by extensive fields. The village itself is a beautiful cluster of whitewashed buildings with heavy wooden doors and carved windows. The hospitality here is warm, and the local butter tea provides much-needed energy after the high-altitude pass.

Elevation: 3,560m Today’s walk is shorter but arguably the most beautiful in terms of color. After leaving Ghami, you cross a small bridge over the Ghami Khola and begin a steady climb. To your left, the cliffs are an unbelievable shade of deep red and blue-grey, looking as though they have been painted by hand. The trail passes the end of the long Mani wall you saw yesterday, and it is traditional to walk to the left of it, spinning the prayer wheels as you go. The climb leads to the Tsarang La Pass (3,870m), which provides a grand entrance into the Tsarang Valley.

Tsarang was once the second city of the kingdom and remains a site of great political and religious importance. As you descend toward the village, the massive five-story white Dzong (fortress) and the red Gompa (monastery) dominate the skyline. The Tsarang Gompa is home to a vast collection of statues and thangkas, and it sits on the edge of a sheer canyon. The village is surprisingly green, with willow trees and irrigation channels running through the streets. Exploring the fortress, you can see the skeletal remains of the "demon’s hand" that is said to have been kept there for centuries. The afternoon is best spent wandering the narrow lanes and visiting the local library within the monastery, which houses ancient gold-lettered texts.

Elevation: 3,810m This is the day you reach the heart of the journey. The trek begins with a descent from the Tsarang plateau, crossing the river, and then a long, gradual ascent toward the "Lo La" (The Pass of Lo) at 3,950m. As you reach the crest of this pass, the walled city of Lo Manthang suddenly appears in the distance—a lone, square fortress-town sitting in a vast, arid plain near the Tibetan border. The sight of the white-washed walls and the towering red monasteries against the backdrop of the Himalayas is a moment most trekkers never forget.

Descending from the pass, you enter the city through the single main gate on the eastern wall. Lo Manthang is a living museum. Within the walls, life has changed little in centuries. You will visit the three major monasteries: Jampa Lhakhang (the oldest, featuring a massive golden Buddha), Thubchen Lhakhang (with its immense assembly hall), and Chodey Lhakhang. The Royal Palace, home to the late King of Mustang's family, stands at the center. Despite the modern world slowly creeping in via the road from the Chinese border, the town remains deeply spiritual. The evening can be spent in a local teahouse, perhaps trying traditional Tibetan bread or yak meat stew, while listening to the distant chanting of monks from the nearby monasteries.

Elevation: 3,810m This day is dedicated to exploring the northern reaches of Mustang, near the Tibetan border. Most trekkers hire horses or a jeep to visit the Chhoser region. The highlight here is the Shija Jhong Cave, a five-story cave complex with over 40 rooms. These caves were used as dwellings, storage, and even meditation retreats for over 2,000 years. Climbing through the narrow ladders and looking out of the cave windows provides a stunning view of the valley below and the snow peaks of Tibet to the north.

In the afternoon, you can visit the Nyphu and Garphu monasteries, which are built directly into the cliff faces. These sites are less visited and offer a more intimate look at the religious life of the "Lobas" (the people of Lo). Returning to Lo Manthang, you can spend time at the local amchi (traditional doctor) clinic to learn about Himalayan herbal medicine or simply sit in the town square and watch the locals bring their goats and sheep back into the city walls for the night. The sense of isolation and peace in Lo Manthang is profound, offering a rare glimpse into a culture that has survived largely due to its geographical seclusion.

Elevation: 3,820m Instead of retracing your steps, the return journey takes a different route to the west. The trail climbs to a high ridge offering a final, panoramic view of Lo Manthang before heading toward Ghar Gompa. Built in the 8th century, Ghar Gompa (Lo Gekar) is one of the oldest active Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in the world. It is said that the great sage Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) built this monastery to appease the local demons before he could build Samye Monastery in Tibet. The interior is famous for its intricate carved stone plaques and ancient murals.

The trek then continues across a high, wind-swept plateau before descending into Dhakmar. This village is famous for having the most spectacular red cliffs in all of Mustang. According to legend, these cliffs were stained red by the blood of the demoness killed by Guru Rinpoche. As the sun begins to set, the cliffs glow with an almost supernatural intensity, turning deep crimson and orange. The village itself is small and quiet, offering a peaceful atmosphere compared to the larger settlements. This route is less traveled, allowing for a more solitary experience with the landscape.

Elevation: 3,570m The descent continues as you head back toward the south. The trail leads through a series of beautiful, high-altitude meadows where you might spot blue sheep or even the tracks of a snow leopard if you are lucky. The trek passes back through the Ghami region, but from a different angle, providing new perspectives on the vast Mani walls and the layered rock formations. The wind is usually at your back today, making the walking feel a bit easier than the journey up.

You eventually reach Ghiling, a village that is often overlooked on the way up. Ghiling has a large, beautiful monastery and extensive fields of barley. The village is spread out and offers a very traditional atmosphere. The locals are incredibly friendly, and spending an afternoon here gives you a chance to see the daily rhythms of Mustang life—farmers working the fields with dzos (a cross between a cow and a yak) and women spinning wool on their porches. The teahouses here are cozy, often featuring traditional wood-paneled dining rooms where you can warm up by the stove in the evening.

Elevation: 2,980m The trail descends further, leaving the high plateaus and returning to the Kali Gandaki river valley. You will cross the passes you climbed earlier in the trek, such as the Yamada La and the Taklam La, but the descent offers a completely different visual experience as the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges begin to dominate the horizon again. The massive peaks, which were behind you on the way up, are now directly in front, growing larger with every hour of walking.

Returning to Chhusang feels like coming back to a warmer climate. The air is thicker, and the vegetation becomes more varied. This is a good opportunity to visit the villages you might have bypassed on the first few days. The walk along the riverbed is a great time to look for "Saligrams"—ancient ammonite fossils that are millions of years old, dating back to when the Himalayas were the bottom of the Tethys Sea. These fossils are considered sacred by Hindus as icons of Lord Vishnu. Ending the day in Chhusang, you can celebrate the near-completion of the trek with a local apple brandy (Marpha brandy), for which the region is famous.

Elevation: 2,720m On the final full day of trekking, many people choose to take a detour to Muktinath, a sacred site for both Hindus and Buddhists. This requires a steep climb out of the valley, but the spiritual significance and the views from the top are worth the effort. Muktinath features 108 water sprouts and a "natural flame" that burns on top of water, symbolizing the coexistence of the elements. It is a place of intense energy, crowded with pilgrims from all over India and Nepal.

After visiting the temple, the trail descends steeply through the Jhong Valley, passing the ancient ruins of Jhong Fort, which offers incredible views of Dhaulagiri. You then rejoin the Kali Gandaki riverbed for the final stretch into Jomsom. The walk back into Jomsom can be windy, but the sense of accomplishment as you reach the paved streets of the town is immense. Jomsom is a bustling hub where you can find more modern amenities, a hot shower, and perhaps even a celebratory dinner with your guides and porters to mark the end of the expedition.

Elevation: 820m (Pokhara) The trek concludes with a final early morning flight back to Pokhara. As the plane lifts off from the short runway at Jomsom, you get one last aerial view of the rugged, desert-like canyons of Mustang and the towering white peaks of the Annapurnas. The transition from the dry, high-altitude desert to the lush, subtropical greenery of Pokhara happens in just twenty minutes. Landing in Pokhara, the humidity and the smell of trees feel strange after the dusty, dry air of the north. You spend the rest of the day relaxing by Phewa Lake, reflecting on the journey into the once-forbidden kingdom, a place that feels less like a destination and more like a trip back in time.